Pablo

I ordered some Buffalo Bore +P, hard cast lead (great ballistics, great seal supposedly) and +P same but copper.

What is the hottest, "pointiest" (non HP) 380ACP round on the market?

Hah. One of my borrowed pics must have not liked it...... Yes I was only shooting S&B. I've found some lower cost sources. Any idea on the slide locking open?

I scored a used 1952 Polish Tokarev. Basically a commie 1911 knock off, but different in many interesting way. Anyone own a Tok? The only suck thing - the importers took an otherwise nice smooth gun with some level of production workmanship and just put a 1700 era type hatchet job trigger block safety for importing in the USA. It's a cool little gun. I paid $200 for it. It's been shot, but apparently they didn't do a good job of cleaning at any point after import as the cosmoline grease was still in some areas, only gooed up from powder and dirt. The barrel had quite a bit of lead and copper. I soaked and scrubbed and soaked and scrubbed it 4 times. Amazing to watch the layers of junk strip out of the barrel. I was quite surprised at the build-up in the grooves. I finally got it back to white steel. There are some minor pits - maybe someone shot some corrosive ammo and didn't clean it. The gun breaks down so easily so I could soak the entire trigger/hammer assembly. I took it to the range yesterday. The 7.62x25 is a potent round. It shoots nice, tight groups. Lower than I read the skinny sights, but repeatable. The recoil in brief and sharp but in no way uncomfortable. The feeding was generally fine, ejection great. The only problem is the gun would lock with the slide stop up on many shots. Since it's basically an antique, I thought something was wrong with the magazines or the mechanism, but after inspecting and seeing nothing observably wrong. I stewed on it and wondered if my support hand was contacting the slide stop. Thoughts? Experience?

Pictured are two triggers. I'm no gun law expert, so maybe you are correct and I'm over reading the law and the copy...it says this: Quote:double hammer with single spur, double independent or single trigger. So if you get the single trigger version, maybe that would not be legal in the US?

A single finger sweep sending two bullets down separate barrels.

THANKS!! There were two pretty nice ones on G.broker. One I hesitated the other missed the auction close. The looked nice. One sold for $686, the other around $700. There are two on Guns America but spendy.

Illegal. Silly. Ugly. Probably fun to make. I'll pass.

I missed a couple on Gun Broker. None locally. Any Help finding a S&W 1006 would be GREATLY appreciated.

If you have any ammo left you can check it with a micrometer or decent caliper. Is there a forum that has some Walther PPQ experts? Maybe they can tell you what ammo the gun dislikes. It happens. If the ammo can be eliminated - and I am no Walther PPQ expert, first make sure all the simple things are correct. Fully seated mag, clean gun, not over lubed, firm proper grip. IF everything appears well (which I suspect is the case), look for burrs or stuck debris on the extractor and ejector. Check the feedramp and chamber. If that all looks OK it could be the recoil spring reaching the end of it's useful life. It's interesting, if something like this happens frequently then it's a bit easier to figure out. I have a Sig P238, that stove pipes once every 200-250 rounds. Everything seems perfect with the gun and it happens regardless of ammo brand. I'm going to try a Wolffe 12 pound spring - going by some research saying the stock 11 pound spring is just a hair light.

It's not the best, but it shouldn't "jam". What jammed? Feeding or extraction?

Probably lack of demand did that one in. Marlin has quit on some good ones over the years.

Problem solved!

Blimey, no idea you was a limey. Can you shoot?

http://www.google.com/m?hl=en&gl=us&...q=glock+pignose Here's what happens (been there, done that). On my Glocks and FN's if you hang a decent laser or light on there and shoot the gun until it's quite warm, the front portion of the frame will sag away from the slide/barrel. Ask me how I know this. The first time, with a green laser that was absolutely scary dead nuts on when I started shooting but as I shot more and faster the holes were deviating up in a PERFECTLY straight vertical line. Amazing really. At first, I was "what is going on with my grip", over? Then I saw how far the polymer had sagged. I true weakness of plastic. The good news is my Glock 17L is much less susceptible. POINT: It's better to have your nose a little erect vs. floppy and limp when hot. I think Glock pre-stresses the plastic a bit to compensate for limp nose.

Take the S&W BG .380 off any list except the poop list. Added to the list: Olympic Arms K-10 AR 10mm Colt Delta Elite 10mm EAA Witness Match 10mm

I can appreciate that. Their AR family does look nice. I simply refuse to give more money to a company that sold me such a defective product - especially a GUN. I rarely hold a grudge, and if we were talking about a person, I would forgive. In time, I will watch their behavior.

That's not bad. I've got such a terrible taste in my mouth from my S&W .380Bodyguard it will be a LONG time before I buy anything new from them. How they could let such a deficient design out in the public boggles the mind. Their 1911's are problematic in my book as well. Used S&W revolver? Sure.

I'm not the one to talk to about the value of guns, but that....well that's just nuts....heck he could have saved $500. I guess the "cracks" are from the factory. I'll just shoot my Ruger 22/45 Bull Barrel and be happy.

I like the cartridge. I like the platform. It's just TOO much money. Try this lightweight model:

The .40 butt end sits flush with the Glock barrel. There is no way the firing pin would reach the primer, so it must be held in place with the extractor. Obviously not a good situation!

OH I know they make conversion barrels. I have a 6" .357Sig barrel for my Glock 20. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=947&TERM=LWD-20L357 Point is the guys said specifically they were NOT using conversion barrels.

I'll do exactly that, later today after I get back from shooting. They specifically said they did not have .40 S&W conversion barrels in their Glock 20/29's. Exactly why I'm saying what the heck. Maybe "It's the interweb"

Don't shoot the messenger. I had never, even, ever considered chambering a .40S&W in a 10mm gun. I have been reading some typical 10mm info on the 'net about 10mm, case bulging, hot loads, platforms, etc....then I come across these guys that shoot .40S&W all the time in (mostly) Glock 20's and 29's. But some 1911's. I was a bit shocked. Some laughed off the warnings, others said the worst thing they had were punctured primers........ Thoughts? Experiences?? I'm not planning on doing this. This is NOT the purpose of this thread. I just want get a more rational, intelligent, dare I say SANE viewpoint.

I'm impressed. Very cool!