wwillson

All, I can get a Browning Hi-Power new in the box for $540+tax. This deal is at our local Bass-Pro and includes $160 off for a couple combined one-time discounts I have available to me. The gun started at $1000 and was discounted to the current counter price of $700. $540 is a fabulous deal, but there is one caveat, of course. The gun is finished in desert camo, which has precluded them from selling an otherwise hot seller. The desert camo is about the ugliest finish I've ever seen on a handgun. Does anyone know if the finish can be stripped? Any idea where and how much it would cost for the entire stripping and rebluing? Thanks, Wayne

Barry, I'm thinking new off the shelf, so I'd think the manufacture date would be in 2010. It sounds like these would be all new parts? I'm assuming the new parts are better somehow than USGI parts? Thanks, Wayne

All, I'm considering buying a new M1A. I don't own a 30 caliber rifle and have always wanted a M1A, so that's my justification to spend $1,500+.. :-) I'm wondering how the new M1A's compare to a used vintage M1A from years gone by. What's the manufacturing quality difference? What's the chance of getting ripped off buying a used one? Thanks, Wayne

Tom, I laughed out loud!!! Good one Wayne

Trapper, I agree.. Absolutely no real-world application and certainly no reduction or canceling of recoil. Wayne

Leave it to human ingenuity! Double Glock Wayne

I had no idea until I watched this video that an air rifle even existed at this time in history. "> " type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

ausfahrt, Welcome to the forum! Wayne

I've heard of the lockup that can happen when you remove the main spring housing, but not the trigger group lockup while shooting. Wayne

I was surprised when I read this review of a Le Baer 1911. I would expect an expensive 1911 from Les Baer to be much more reliable. The 'lockup' of the trigger group is something I've never heard of in a 1911 - have you? It appears that hydrogen embrittlement is a know problem with the chrome plating process. Could this be a simple tradeoff between looks and reliability? Wayne

This was the first weekend in months where the garage temp was above freezing and I had time to reload. It took about four hours of continuous reloading to knock out 1000. I could have done it faster if someone would have set the wads for me, but it's not a race. I finally ran out of Titewad, then switched back to Clays, which I like better because it takes up more volume in the hull, which give a better crimp. My loads are 1400 fps 11/16 oz steel in VP-51 wads. You might ask why in the world do I shoot 1400 fps steel loads for trap? We are required to shoot steel at our club and 1400 fps steel arrives at the break point at almost exactly the same time as 1200 fps lead. Most people at our club shoot 1 oz steel loads at 1200 fps, which in my opinion, throws timing off if you are accustomed to shooting lead (most at our club shoot lead at other clubs). It is possible to load 1 oz steel loads to 1400 fps, but it's a beating I and most others are not willing to take. I choose to load light, but fast and most others load heavy and slower. The shot count in 11/16 oz of #7 shot steel is about the same as 7/8 oz lead #7.5 shot. While, the shot count for 1 oz #7 steel is about the same as 1 3/8 oz lead #7.5. It is clearly a disadvantage to me when I shoot 11/16 oz load against others who shoot 1 oz loads.... or is it? At 16 yards with a faster load, I get far fewer "dusters" (targets that shot hits and makes dust, but do not break) than those who are shooting 1200 fps loads. Keep in mind that we also have to shoot BIO targets, which are harder to break than pitch targets. If I do my job at 16 yards, then the targets breaks. At yardage distances I either shoot 1250 fps 1 oz loads, or if I really feel like it I'll shoot 1485 fps 1 oz loads. The really fast 1 oz loads definitely get the job done more like lead at distances, but who can stand to shoot them? The 1485 fps 1 oz loads are mostly for games... Wayne

Ah, didn't get that part, nonetheless, keep the chamber shiny clean... Wayne

Pablo, Make sure that the bore of the chamber is shiny clean. If there is any residue buildup, you'll have problems with feeding. Wayne

Pablo, Get a magazine loader , seriously. Wayne

I've used both the R3 and the Kick EEZ on my 12ga 870. I shoot several rounds of trap a week and have for years. The Kick EEZ is really good, but the R3 is the best recoil pad I've ever used period. The only problem is that they both like to grab hold of your clothing! Wayne

I have a P90 that I have fired 1225 times (I keep exquisite records of everything) 1175 of those are my handloads. The P90 has a reputation of being able to feed anything and it certainly has for me. It also has a reputation of being extremely reliable, which is also has been for me. Every time I've ever pulled the trigger it goes bang... Both semi-wadcutter and ball feed flawlessly. I have a Kimber 45ACP and in a gunfight, I'd take the P90 EVERY time... It is accurate, but it isn't a bullseye 45 by any means. The P90 also has a very comfortable grip, much more so than the 1911. The model I have has the decocker, so if you move the decocker to 'safe' it releases the hammer (without firing). With the decocker in the safe position you can pull the trigger all you want and it does nothing as the trigger and hammer are disconnected. I really like the decocker model because in the safe position anyone could pick up the gun and couldn't accidentally shoot someone while being stupid when it's in the 'safe' position. Now the bad part - the first pull can be either double or single action (that's not the bad part). If you want single, then you have to move the decocker to 'fire' then rack the slide - the hammer will stay back and you're ready to go. The single action trigger is fine for plinking, but it's no 1911 as the travel is pretty long (very normal for plastic guns, although the P90 isn't plastic). After the first shot it's single action every time like a 1911. If you leave the decocker in the safe postion while you rack the slide, then move the decocker to the 'fire' position when ready, it will be double action. The double action trigger pull is long and stiff (that's the bad part), you'll get used to it, but I don't want you have have any misgivings that it's like the double action pull of a S&W revolver - it's not. I can take the pistol down in about 10 seconds - it's very similar to the 1911 except you don't have to take the bushing off the end of the slide, because there is none to take off - it's just simple. Thanks, Wayne

Just remember that Unique is a medium burn-rate powder and Blue Dot is a slow burn-rate powder. You will get less velocity from Unique, but that's usually acceptable for range/plinking. I loaded Unique a long time ago, so I don't remember much about it, but don't remember anything negative. What type of loads will these be? Wayne

Shannow, Has he ever been hurt by his own foolishness? Wayne

Do I assume correctly that the 'reverse' trigger is the slide release? Wayne

Brownells has one, but it's a bit more expensive.. http://www.brownells.com/1/1/22170-rem-8...-brownells.html Wayne

G-Man, Who makes this follower? Wayne

I see Graf's has a pretty good deal on Armscor 22LR ammo. Does anyone here shoot Armscor ammo? I'd like to hear how it works in your 22 auto pistols. Thanks, Wayne

I don't hunt in Illinois, but I believe this verbiage from the law pretty much sums it up: Quote:a. to possess a rifle in the field during gun deer season EXCEPTmuzzleloading rifles used by deer hunters only. No person may have in his possession any firearm not authorized by administrative rule for a specific hunting season when taking deer.

Now that video give you the warm-and-fuzzies doesn't it?! Wayne

I just held one at Bass Pro near my home. It really seems like a well manufactured GI 1911 with better sights than the WWII vintage 1911's. It is priced at $650, which seems like a pretty good deal. Wayne