woodsoup

This is how I have mine set up. The Pro 1000 is permanent. note the primer drop tube under it. At first I forgot about those pesky buggers until the press frame filled up. Just a sink drain tube stuck into a 1 1/2" through hole. Once in a while I stick the vacuum hose into it to suck out the ones that don't/can't find their way into the trash can. I found that the pivot rod is a great place to store the powder measure. This is the "Quick" change part. 8020 brand extrusions recessed and screwed/glued into the bench top. the aluminum equipment base is also 8020. You can get small ammounts of the extrusions and fittings from their eBay store. This is the single slot type. Note the little magnet for uncovering those plated steel cases. This is the whole mess. this was after a weekend .223 marathon. Yes that is an anniversary press. It's been replaced with the modified classic cast. The boxes with the blue tops hold primed ready to load brass. Yes, I use a Lee scale. And this is how it looks today. Not too different.

I feel sorry for the mice.

You don't have to send anything back to me. But it would be nice if you put something else up for grabs. The rifle brass is kind of a continous cycle thing. Take out what you want. Put somemore in and post it.

So, I reorganized my brass storage from pretzel jugs to 3x1/2 gal pails w/lids. I don't think I'll ever need 9+ gallons of 9mm or .38 Spl brass. Anyone want a gallon baggy of either? that's 2 gallon bags, 1- .38 spl and 1- 9mm. it's clean, sized and deprimmed mixed HS. most is once fired and range pickup. This one is on me. I also have some mixed rifle brass that I don't reload. The idea behind this Karma is I send you all my unwanted brass, you pick out what you want and add yours to it and resend it to whoever asks for it first. Who knows, maybe we can keep this going for a while. 22-250, 260 Rem, 35 Rem, 270 Win, 30 Cardine, 204 Ruger, 30-06, 308, 243 Win, 5.7x28. Just a couple/few of each. But I don't need/want it and maybe someone else does.

Has anyone ever sent their S&W back to them for a tuneup? My 626-4x6" is in need of a little tweeking to get some cylinder end play and loose lockup removed/minimized.

Yes sir! That leaves enough for the case mouth to "catch" in the chamber.

Federal laws say you need to pay your $200 for the tax stamp, pass a background check and then you're good to go. State laws vary all over the place. Here in NC. I need to notify the county sheriff that I have purchased one. I don't need his permission to purchase one. Check with who, what or whom you got your FOID card from, They should at least know where you need to go locally. If you are allowed, try to get one that you can use on more than one weapon of like caliber.

Mount your equipment to a standard size base, metal or wood, that all the equipment will fit on, one base per piece of equipment. Locate the equipment on each base. Now find the hole pattern that fits around all the equipment. a least 3 holes 2 at the rear and one in the front. Using one base as a template, drill through the base and your bench top. Most big box lumber stores, Lowe's, Home Depot, have T flange nuts. Determine your desired bolt size, Minimum 5/16", and get the nuts for that size. Measure the neck of the nut and expand the holes in the base and bench top to that size or a shade smaller. Get the right length bolts and some fender washers, 2-3 per hole plus a few just in case, not regular washers. Position the base over the bench top holes and drop a bolt through each hole. start a nut on each bold. IMPORTANT!! tighten the bolt into the nut, not the nut onto the bolt. This will pull the nuts up into the bottom of the bench and they will be semi-permanent. Epoxy makes them more permanent but still removable. Remove the bolts to change out your equipment.

BLUB GLUB BLUB BLUB GLUB, No floods in here in Gastonia but Charlotte has. Now as I say that the creeks are probably leaving their banks! My daughter lives just north of New Orleans, in Hammond, and said the water was lapping at the bottom of her top step (about 16"), and her dog, a golden retriever that loves water, won't go outside to do those doggy things. Her back yard was probably under 3-6". This was yesterday.

NFA= National Firearms Act SRB= SBR= Short Barreld Rifle MG= Machine Gun. A NFA item SMG (Sub Gun)= Sub(caliber) Machine Gun. Typically uses pistol caliber bullets. A NFA item EBR= Evil Black Rifle Suppressor/Silencer= A device attached to the barrel that minimizes the noise generated by the powder charge. It does not minimize the sonic crack made by sonic speed bullets. A NFA Item. OK, time for someone else to chime in.

Just a thought, Get some shot that ain't so sharp Or polish the shot you have. I hear Mothers Wheel Polish works good for that. LOL just a ton of elbow grease per 1 1/8 oz load ought to keep you out of trouble till after the holidays at least. Sorry no more ideas.

Well lets see? I got my screen name from my last name and one of my hobbies, woodworking. I am a manufacturing engineer for one of the major automotive/off-highway filter manufacturers. I'm married and have one grown daughter. I own a total of 18 personnel weapons. from .17 HM2 up to 12 ga. Although I'm responsible for the care and cleaning of my wifes 2 revolvers and 1 pistol. And I dare not visit the daughter and forget the cleaning kit for her S&W 22A. I have, and exercise my right to personal self protection, as far as the current laws will allow me to. I've been reloading for the CF weapons for about 5 years. I don't shoot my shotguns enough to justify that reloading expense. I don't cast my own, Yet. But I think that might change soon. Thats about it for me. How about Y'all?

Now remember, I don't reload for shotguns so shot cups are foreign to me. but I do work in an industry that uses a lot of metal working processes. So... A scratch physically removes or drastically displaces meterial. When you burnish something you smooth out (push) the high spots into the low spots in the finish. Burnishing is not like polishing. Polishing removes material by making progressivly finer "scratches" in the material. Tumbling reloading brass in a vibratory bowl is actually a burnishing process. Unless you add an abrasive to the mix. the media is just moving a few molecules around until they are aligned just right. It might be that the shot simply slid over the surface and left you some skid marks. Can you feel them or just see them? I would think if the shot cup was over filled, the marks would continue down the length of the barrel. Since there is no room in the shot cup, where could the extra shot go? There is also the possibility of some foreign material being imbedded in surface of the shot cup.

I think my "funnist" gun is my model of 1903 S&W, .32 long pistol. It was nickel plated at some time, the previous owner must have kept it in the bilge of his boat. There is no rifeling to speak of on the upper right quadrent of the barrel and you can find similar rust damage on/in the cylinder and frame. Line all the damage up and it appears to have sat on it's right side with the butt elevated above the water line. I paid the old gent 35 dollars for it and 2 boxes of factory ammo. Here's a picture of it during the cleanup. Model of 1903 It's accurate all the way out to maybe 3 yards now. Originally the end of the barrel was dented in and it shot about 3 feet left at that distance. I just used a 23/32 drill bit and a dremmel to (ahem) fix that minor problem. I keep it in my truck and had reason to euthenize a small doe in the road one evening. Someone hit her and just left. It did the job tho.

Are you sure theat it is scratched and not just burnished?

The frost is the lead not giving up it's heat as fast. You don't have to increase the temp in both at the same time, or by much, try one then the other then both. If they still don't fill out like you want, I'd check the vent lines for any obstructions. Especially if one intersects the area where the fill out is a problem. Trust me (??), that target won't even have time to tell if the bullet is frosted or shiney, nor will it care.

Don't forget, there is a $22.50 HazMat fee added on. Be it 1K or 50K primers. I usually ask around and get enough guys go in on an informal group buy. I buy it and the hazmat and shipping gets evenly divided by the number of folks I'm ordering for, no matter how much they order. Usually ends up about $4.50 added to their total item costs. You can ship primers and powder in the same container under 1 hazmat fee. I think it's 55 lbs of powder and 50K primers. Most of the US primers are going into ammo manufacturing. Rumor has it that CCI is about to catch-up, and will be putting out more primers to the public. Now understand, that is an internet rumor.

I don't know of any reason why not, unless the tweezers are too thin. Either grind or maybe a little epoxy.

Wayne: The .17 will be a bit difficult but not impossible. A lot depends on your equipment. SLOWLY is the word on dumping powder into the case, and CAREFULLY for seating the bullet. Those 1/2 moon wounds, on the thumb or index finger, ain't fun. I have a friend that loads .17 and he made a pair of tweezers to hold the bullet while starting it in the case. Basically he cut the base off a .22short case, and brazed it onto both legs of a long set of mechanics tweezers. He then cut the tube in half along its axis. A little deburring and final finishing and Viola, no more scars digits. He did have to grind the chrome plating off the tweezers first to get the braze to stick. If you're dropping powder with a measure directly into the case, just turn the handle a little slower (OK, a lot slower) than you normally would. Same goes for hand dumped powder. You might look into a longer drop tube too.

Try a bit more heat in the pot and the mold, Mostly the mold.

Probably due to Patent infringment issues if Hornaday had it out first.

Do you mean from the breech end or the muzzle end. From the breech usually means the bullet is too hard and not obiturating fast enough. Or the bullet is undersized for your bore. The lead is from the powder melting the bullet, and the melted lead depositing on the barrel. The powder load is USUALLY burned up about that far down the barrel. If you mean the muzzle end, that usually means you've run out of lube before the bullet gets out of the barrel. Try double dipping your bullets. If you tumble lube, thin the first coat 50/50 with mineral spirits. When that is good and dry, tumble lube with 100% alox, or you could do the hand dip method (what a pain that is) Let them set up real good. A little mica powder, after the final lube, will help keep the aloxed bullets from sticking to every thing and everybody. just tumble the bullets, about 20 at a time, in a margarine tub with a small amount of mica.

Those out there that have a Lee Clasic Cast press, and wish they could have a breech lock option, are in luck. The Hornady LNL Bushing Conversion kit screws right into the Lee frame after you remove the 7/8x14 threaded bushing. The kit is about $15.-$20. depending where you purchase it. Just don't loctite it in, you won't be able to reload those 50BMG's you have under the bench. Here it is... Hornady LNL Kit

2 years ago, my SKS and I made a February trip out to Woodland Park Co. Both my handloads, using IMR 3031 powder, with Wolf LR primers and the Wolf Military ammo had no problems. with the temperatures out there. Sorry, I was suggesting you buy some wolf ammo to try, Wolf primers are hard to find in most locals. But that's what the internet is for. Wideners or Powder Valley may have some.

See, there you go believing what you read on the internet. Have you ever tried it yourself? For $10.00 you can put the rumors to rest, just buy 2 boxes and try it. I've been using their primers (SP, SR, 5.56 SR, LR, LP and MIL LR) for the last 3+ years without any complaint. about 12000 so far the only "problem" I've had is they are sometimes a tad bit oversize in the SR offering. That might be from tooling wear. Their loaded ammo is what it is. Cheap, dirty, steel cased plinking ammo. I've never had a round of 7.62x39 or 7.62x54R not fire in one of my guns. Saying that, I do not use it in any of my non-milsurp weapons. The trouble with it is snobbery and the fact that folks think it ought to be match grade, but it is built to milspec and that is minute of man at 300 yards.