G-MAN

Anyone know what it is?

Don't think the frame is any beefier. And you're right about the purpose of the divot. Note the position of the slide stop button relative to the divot when the slide is locked for disassembly:

Two of the distinguishing marks of early Hi-Powers are the internal extractor and the divot milled into the right side of the slide. The extractor was changed to the current external type in the late 50s and the divot was dropped. For 10 points, what was the purpose of the divot milled into the slide? (No fair using Google to cheat.)

I found a dealer in Georgia who's got one in 7.62x39 or .223 for $319.00, which is about what you'll pay for a "new" Chinese SKS and less than what I've seen Yugo SKS listed for.

After doing quite a bit of research I think I'll go with a Saiga in .223 instead of a SKS.

A friend of mine that I used to shoot with a long, long time ago had a SKS. It was a fun gun to plink with, and from what I understand the ammo for it is now plentiful and made by just about everyone, which wasn't the case 25 years ago. So, I'm thinking about getting one. Who currently makes the best SKS? I've done a little research and it seems some are coming from China and others from Eastern European countries, and some from Russia.

Good deal. Congrats.

No commercial enterprises may use this space to promote their business. Only individuals are allowed to enter ads here. If you are selling more than one item, or if you are asking to buy more than one item, please make an individual post for each item. Posts that list more than one item for sale, or want to buy posts with more than one item, will be deleted. Anyone Selling Anything or Buying Anything Through This Forum Agrees to the Following: Seller represents and warrants that anything offered for sale is fully and accurately described and that no material information regarding anything offered for sale has been misstated or left out. Purchaser understands that neither practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, nor any administrator, moderator or other staff member shall have any responsibility whatsoever for any information posted. The practicallyshooting.com forum site is not an auction site. All firearms or items advertised for sale herein must be listed at a fixed price. Posts listing an item without a fixed price will be deleted. Sellers may not offer for sale here any firearm or item that is also listed on any on-line auction site or which has been consigned to any physical auction house for sale. If a Seller subsequently decides to list a firearm or an item already advertised here on any auction site, the Seller must remove the offer to sell from here and notify any members with whom negotiations may have begun, that the firearm or item has been listed for auction and is no longer for sale through the practicallyshooting.com Classifieds. Practicallyshooting.com has no responsibility over what someone is selling, if it is in good condition or according to the seller's description. When you purchase something listed here, you do so at your own risk. Purchaser agrees that he has no claim against practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member if purchaser is in any way dissatisfied with the transaction or the item purchased. All transactions are governed by the laws that apply in the seller's and/or purchaser's jurisdiction. Both seller and purchaser agree that practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member has absolutely no responsibility over the transaction. Practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member does not participate, in any way, in these transactions. Purchaser agrees that he/she is solely responsible for knowing whether anything he/she buys may be legally purchased, used or owned by him/her. The seller has no responsibility for that. Practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member has no responsibility for that. Seller and purchaser, jointly and severally, shall, defend, indemnify, and hold harmless practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member from any claim related to the purchase or sale of an item advertised here. You accept the above, by just posting here and/or by buying anything advertised here. The title of your post should follow the following guidelines: The first word should be the manufacturer of your pistol (Ruger, Colt, S&W, Springfield etc.), the second word should be the model (Blackhawk, Government, M&P, etc.), from then on, it is up to you. There is no need for "WTS", or "FS" or "For Sale" or whatever. Also, this is a "For Sale" forum so, except for offers to trade, the ads are automatically FS or WTS. If you want to trade a gun, use WTT. No auctions can be run in this site, so the price you are selling your item should be fixed and stated in your ad. If you want to reduce the price, please edit the initial post, do not ad a new one. Nothing offered for sale on this site may also be offered by auction anywhere else; and nothing being offered by auction anywhere else may also be offered for sale on this site. For Respondants: ---------------------- * Responses to ads in the Classifieds shall be limited to questions seeking clarification or additional information. * ALL negotiations (offers, counter-offers, etc. shall be carried out through PMs and/or e-mails. Do NOT use the forum to negotiate price or terms. Any negotiations posted will be deleted. * Classifieds threads are NOT to be used for discussion of the item or items mentioned in the original ad. Questions pertaining to clarification or seeking additional information are allowed. Other than that, discussion is not allowed. * If you think a price is too high, don't buy the item. No comments on the reasonableness of a seller's asking price are permitted. If you absolutely MUST say something, send an e-mail or a PM to the seller. * If you have sent a PM or e-mail in response to an ad, that's all you need to do. Do NOT post in the thread a redundant message such as "PM sent" or "E-mail sent." It's rude, and it's a waste of bandwidth. Sellers: If you see such a response, DO NOT post a reply to it. If the moderators see such posts, they will be deleted. * Respect the rights of the other members, do not bump your thread, by adding useless posts. If you want to change the price of the item you sell, you may edit the first post. Editing of your posts in these forum is allowed for 60 days after the post was entered. THESE TERMS OF USE ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR MODIFICATION AT ANY TIME WITHOUT FURTHER NOTICE. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO READ AND BE FAMILIAR WITH THEM BEFORE MAKING A POST IN THE CLASSIFIED SECTION.

No commercial enterprises may use this space to promote their business. Only individuals are allowed to enter ads here. If you are selling more than one item, or if you are asking to buy more than one item, please make an individual post for each item. Posts that list more than one item for sale, or want to buy posts with more than one item, will be deleted. Anyone Selling Anything or Buying Anything Through This Forum Agrees to the Following: Seller represents and warrants that anything offered for sale is fully and accurately described and that no material information regarding anything offered for sale has been misstated or left out. Purchaser understands that neither practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, nor any administrator, moderator or other staff member shall have any responsibility whatsoever for any information posted. The practicallyshooting.com forum site is not an auction site. All firearms or items advertised for sale herein must be listed at a fixed price. Posts listing an item without a fixed price will be deleted. Sellers may not offer for sale here any firearm or item that is also listed on any on-line auction site or which has been consigned to any physical auction house for sale. If a Seller subsequently decides to list a firearm or an item already advertised here on any auction site, the Seller must remove the offer to sell from here and notify any members with whom negotiations may have begun, that the firearm or item has been listed for auction and is no longer for sale through the practicallyshooting.com Classifieds. Practicallyshooting.com has no responsibility over what someone is selling, if it is in good condition or according to the seller's description. When you purchase something listed here, you do so at your own risk. Purchaser agrees that he has no claim against practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member if purchaser is in any way dissatisfied with the transaction or the item purchased. All transactions are governed by the laws that apply in the seller's and/or purchaser's jurisdiction. Both seller and purchaser agree that practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member has absolutely no responsibility over the transaction. Practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member does not participate, in any way, in these transactions. Purchaser agrees that he/she is solely responsible for knowing whether anything he/she buys may be legally purchased, used or owned by him/her. The seller has no responsibility for that. Practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member has no responsibility for that. Seller and purchaser, jointly and severally, shall, defend, indemnify, and hold harmless practicallyshooting.com, Wayne Willson, or any administrator, moderator or other staff member from any claim related to the purchase or sale of an item advertised here. You accept the above, by just posting here and/or by buying anything advertised here. The title of your post should follow the following guidelines: The first word should be the manufacturer of your pistol (Ruger, Colt, S&W, Springfield etc.), the second word should be the model (Blackhawk, Government, M&P, etc.), from then on, it is up to you. There is no need for "WTS", or "FS" or "For Sale" or whatever. Also, this is a "For Sale" forum so, except for offers to trade, the ads are automatically FS or WTS. If you want to trade a gun, use WTT. No auctions can be run in this site, so the price you are selling your item should be fixed and stated in your ad. If you want to reduce the price, please edit the initial post, do not ad a new one. Nothing offered for sale on this site may also be offered by auction anywhere else; and nothing being offered by auction anywhere else may also be offered for sale on this site. For Respondants: ---------------------- * Responses to ads in the Classifieds shall be limited to questions seeking clarification or additional information. * ALL negotiations (offers, counter-offers, etc. shall be carried out through PMs and/or e-mails. Do NOT use the forum to negotiate price or terms. Any negotiations posted will be deleted. * Classifieds threads are NOT to be used for discussion of the item or items mentioned in the original ad. Questions pertaining to clarification or seeking additional information are allowed. Other than that, discussion is not allowed. * If you think a price is too high, don't buy the item. No comments on the reasonableness of a seller's asking price are permitted. If you absolutely MUST say something, send an e-mail or a PM to the seller. * If you have sent a PM or e-mail in response to an ad, that's all you need to do. Do NOT post in the thread a redundant message such as "PM sent" or "E-mail sent." It's rude, and it's a waste of bandwidth. Sellers: If you see such a response, DO NOT post a reply to it. If the moderators see such posts, they will be deleted. * Respect the rights of the other members, do not bump your thread, by adding useless posts. If you want to change the price of the item you sell, you may edit the first post. Editing of your posts in these forum is allowed for 60 days after the post was entered. THESE TERMS OF USE ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR MODIFICATION AT ANY TIME WITHOUT FURTHER NOTICE. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO READ AND BE FAMILIAR WITH THEM BEFORE MAKING A POST IN THE CLASSIFIED SECTION.

Replaced the recoil spring with a 17# Wolff. 17# is the standard Browning spring rating. Judging by how much longer the new spring was compared to the old spring, plus how much more effort is now needed to open the slide, I'd say the old spring was shot. I also replaced the firing pin spring with a Wolff "extra power" spring, which should make the gun much more "drop safe." Same thing with the firing pin spring: much longer and stiffer than the old spring. Getting the firing pin back in with the new spring was a real challenge. (If you've ever changed the firing pin on a 1911, the Hi-Power is the same, so you know what I'm talking about.) And finally, I changed out the grips for some new FN black nylon grips and installed them with two new Hogue screws.

Modified Weaver stance, semi-rapid fire.

Took the FEG to the range today, too, and fired 100 rounds of Winchester white box through it. No stovepipes or misfeeds, but one FTE on the last round fired. Don't know what was up with that. Trigger is improving, or maybe I'm just getting used to it. Here's a couple of my targets that were typical of today's shoot.

Took my new Glock 26 to the range today and shot it for the first time. I've never fired a striker pistol before so the trigger took some getting used to. I generally do better with heavier handguns and ones that have a long sight radius, so this little (and light) 9mm really took some getting used to. I put 150 rounds through it and had no missfeeds, etc. whatsoever. Recoil isn't bad and the trigger is really quite nice once you get used to it. Here are my two best targets. 15 yards, 10 rounds each, modified Weaver stance.

After shooting thousands of rounds of +P and std 38 Spec in my Model 19 and Dan Wesson 25 years ago, I would think the only advantage you're going to see in a 2" barrel is lots of extra flash and muzzle blast. Unless you're familiar with and used to shooting a light, snub nose revolver, it's going to take a lot of practice for you to be able to stay in the black at anything over fifteen feet. Full house +P rounds are only going to make that more difficult. I'd buy a truck load of wadcutter ammo and get really good with that at distances up to 15 yards and then start trying the +P.

I think you made the right decision over the PF-9. I was considering the LCR too, but the Glock 26 caught my fancy.

Looks like I should have read the manual more closely. Page 37: "Note that the copper colored lubricant found on portions of the slide of a brand new GLOCK pistol should not be removed, as it will help to provide long-term lubrication of the slide." Oh well...as anal as I am about cleaning and lubing my guns I don't think the absence of this assembly lube is going to be detrimental to my 26.

I suspect all auto makers put some sort of grease on the slide rails during final assembly. My Ruger P95 was full of it. I think they do it because, realistically, how many people are going to buy the gun, take it home and tear it down, clean and lube it properly, and then go shoot it? Not many. Most are going to buy it and head to the range. The grease is in there so the gun doesn't get fired "dry" right out of the box. And they use grease because it will stay put no matter how long the gun sits on the shelf before someone buys it.

I left a little bit, but only because the stuff is so tenacious and hard to clean out of the slide rails. There was nothing in the manual about leaving it. The manual said disassemble, clean, and lube before shooting. And the recommended lube is oil, not grease.

The Glock 26, 27, and 29 are all the same size gun. These are roughly the same size as my PPK/S but lighter in weight. In a gun this size I think 9mm (especially if you're shooting +P loads) is about as stout as I want to go. I think the .40 and especially the 10mm is too much for a gun this size and weight.

I haven't shot it yet. I'm planning to take to the range on Wednesday. I don't think the muzzle flip will be too bad for a couple of reasons: The bore axis is very low on a Glock, and the grip angle is steeper than on most other pistols. For example, my P95 has quite a bit of muzzle flip even though it's a relatively heavy gun because the bore axis is so high and the grip angle is rather upright. Here is a good video that shows Glock sub compact recoil in 9mm, .40, and 10mm. The first gun he shoots in the demonstration is a Glock 26 in 9mm. "> " type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

I've heard the take-down pin can cause problems. I considered the PF9 and P11, but decided against them. They seem to me to be built for carrying and not shooting, which is what your typical concealed carry permit holder will do. I want my carry gun to be one I can put 50 rounds a week through for the next 10 years and still be going strong. I think a CC holder has an obligation to practice regularly (at least monthly) with the weapon he/she carries. Until the Glock 26 caught my fancy today I was leaning toward a Kahr PM9 for CC.

Here's a pic of my new Glock 26, fresh from stripping and cleaning.

I went down to Academy a little while ago because they had their Monarch 9mm brass on sale for $7.99 a box. When I got there they were all sold out, so I stood there talking to the gun manager who was showing a guy some Glocks. The Glock 26 he was looking at caught my eye. I picked it up and fiddled with it while the guy moved on to looking at Rugers. He wound up getting a SR9. I played with the 26 a little more then handed it back to the manager. But as I was walking toward the front of the store to leave I kept thinking about how good it felt in my hand. I was surprised because when I got my Ruger P95 I tried a Glock 17 and I did not like that at all. But the 26 is smaller and lighter, and the grip is shorter. I kept walking...and thinking...about how I still really haven't settled on a gun I will be comfortable carrying concealed all the time once my permit comes. So I turned around and went back to the gun counter and played with the 26 some more. And wound up getting it. Pics to follow.

Yes. The Hi-Power was originally developed per the requirements of the French army. A mag disconnect safety was one of those requirements. In the end, the French chose a different weapon as their standard sidearm: the Pistolet automatique modèle 1935A (a French design). Over on one of the Hi-Power forums someone has posted that the Nazis dropped the mag safety beginning in 1943. After the war, when production resumed, FN put it back in. So, some Nazi HPs have the disconnect and some don't.