G-MAN
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Posts posted by G-MAN
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Why not to the socialist state of Kali-for-nia?
Because I'm not sure what CA gun laws are regarding sales of a handgun from an out of state, not-FFL holder.
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S&W 681 in very good condition. Tight action with no endshake. Super crisp and light trigger. Price as outlined below. Shipping is $25 to the lower 47 (will not ship to California) to your FFL. Will consider trade for a Ruger New Vaquero, stainless, in 357.
With Hogue grips: $375
With the Altamont grips pictured: $400.
With a NOS set of period correct S&W Target grips: $430
With period correct Magna PC grips $450
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Take a look at this Hickok video where he talks about ammo Glock's like and don't like.
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Well, it arrived today. When I inspected it at the dealer I could see that this was an early production gun, which concerned me, but it cycled smoothly and functioned properly, so I brought it home. Sprayed it down with Balistol to clean all the packing lube off and out of it. Wiped it down, scrubbed it out, cycled it a few more times. Smooth as silk. Cycled it one last time and noticed it was a little tight on closing and...whamo--she's locked up tight as a drum. Action won't open no matter what. It's frozen. Looks like what I read on the early production models with hit or miss quality is true--and I got a bad one. Once bitten, twice shy. I won't be pushing my luck with another one.
I called the dealer where I got it on GunBroker and they are issuing a UPS return pick up label.
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Just took down my Ruger P85Mkii and you DO have to press down on the lever inside the frame just like the Smith to get the slide off.
You can see the lever in the mag well.
Bill
Yeah, I remembered I had to do that on the P95, too. The lever is the ejector on the Ruger.
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I wasn't doubting your accuracy on the M&P procedure, just commenting on how similar yet different it is from my SIG P6 (which is not striker fired).
Would it be possible to use the trigger as the "sear deactivation lever" and take the M&P down just like you do a Glock? (Maybe that is what Hickok was doing.)
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Originally Posted By: G-MANSo the takedown is not as simple as my SIG? Lock the slide back, flip the lever, release the slide, and slide it off.
Smith wanted to make sure that you did NOT have to pull the trigger before taking down the weapon so they put the take down lever inside the frame that allows you to take the slide off without the possible AD that other weapons sometimes have.
I just watched the video again and no, he is not doing the take down correctly per the manual.
Also the Ruger SR9C, SR40 are the same way as the smith. The P series are the same way too!
Bill
I don't have to pull the trigger on my SIG P6. The procedure is just as I outlined.
My Ruger P95 takedown was just like a 1911; nothing like what you've described for the M&P.
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So the takedown is not as simple as my SIG? Lock the slide back, flip the lever, release the slide, and slide it off.
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Based on what we see in the video, in what way is he taking it down improperly?
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I've never handled a M&P but that looks like a recess in the frame for the take down lever--to make it more flush with the side of the frame.Originally Posted By: Bill_in_UtahNegative. It is the slide stop.
Negative. What I was talking about is the takedown lever and its corresponding recess in the frame.
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They're all Winchesters:
1873 (left)
1885 (middle)
1876 (right)
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Originally Posted By: G-MANCheck this out:
That's after 60000 rounds. I'm still getting one and if it breaks I'm quite sure S&W will fix it.
I don't see myself shooting 60000 rounds either.
But the crack in the slide rail is in exactly the same spot as Hickok's. I wonder how many rounds have been put through his gun? He got it used from one of his YouTube fans.
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I've never handled a M&P but that looks like a recess in the frame for the take down lever--to make it more flush with the side of the frame.
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Check this out:
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Did you see at 1:07? I'm not even talking about your post. I'm talking about the video. If you put the slide on the gun it would appear that the frame is cracked right under that spot on the frame.
I guess that's normal though. That's where I thought the crack was.
Here's the video at 1:07. I don't see any cracks in the frame.
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Yah I see it. Frame appears to be cracked right under it.
What frame? That's the slide removed from the frame. You're looking at the inside of the slide from the bottom. The frame is lying on the shooting table.
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G-MAN it looks like the polymer frame is cracked. I don't follow when you say slide rail...
Don't you see it?
All I saw in the video was the crack in the left slide rail.
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Congrats.
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No-middle looks to be a Sharps?
Nope, not a Sharps.
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Can you ID these rifles?
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Yowser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (I only watched a few minutes - thanks)
That's nasty - pretty ironic too when he is talking about how burr free the gun is.
Notice when he starts to remove the slide he comments on how he's noticed it hangs up sometimes. I bet that crack in the slide rail is why.
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Originally Posted By: CamuMahubahWell I watched it and I enjoyed the video. Darn it if the frame on that gun ain't cracked so bad I wouldn't have shot it! I don't know how Hickok didn't notice that!
It is? I just can't sit through a whole 20 minutes. At what time did you see the crack??
It's not the frame, it's one of the rails on the slide.
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What is the best overall gun and caliber for the feral pig menace? Drop 'em in one good shot, not anger them....if you know what I mean.
No matter what caliber you choose, shot placement is going to critical for dropping them with one shot. A good 12 ga slug gun would do the trick. As for rifles, I'd be comfortable taking any of these on a pig hunt:
My Marlin 30-30
My Savage 99 in 308*
My 1895 in 30-06
My No. 1 in 30-06
*The one I would most likely take if someone called me up and said let's go hunt some pigs.
S&W 681, 4"
in For Sale
Posted
Sold on the S&W forum