G-MAN

Sold on the S&W forum

Because I'm not sure what CA gun laws are regarding sales of a handgun from an out of state, not-FFL holder.

S&W 681 in very good condition. Tight action with no endshake. Super crisp and light trigger. Price as outlined below. Shipping is $25 to the lower 47 (will not ship to California) to your FFL. Will consider trade for a Ruger New Vaquero, stainless, in 357. With Hogue grips: $375 With the Altamont grips pictured: $400. With a NOS set of period correct S&W Target grips: $430 With period correct Magna PC grips $450

Take a look at this Hickok video where he talks about ammo Glock's like and don't like. "> " type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

Well, it arrived today. When I inspected it at the dealer I could see that this was an early production gun, which concerned me, but it cycled smoothly and functioned properly, so I brought it home. Sprayed it down with Balistol to clean all the packing lube off and out of it. Wiped it down, scrubbed it out, cycled it a few more times. Smooth as silk. Cycled it one last time and noticed it was a little tight on closing and...whamo--she's locked up tight as a drum. Action won't open no matter what. It's frozen. Looks like what I read on the early production models with hit or miss quality is true--and I got a bad one. Once bitten, twice shy. I won't be pushing my luck with another one. I called the dealer where I got it on GunBroker and they are issuing a UPS return pick up label.

Yeah, I remembered I had to do that on the P95, too. The lever is the ejector on the Ruger.

I wasn't doubting your accuracy on the M&P procedure, just commenting on how similar yet different it is from my SIG P6 (which is not striker fired). Would it be possible to use the trigger as the "sear deactivation lever" and take the M&P down just like you do a Glock? (Maybe that is what Hickok was doing.)

I don't have to pull the trigger on my SIG P6. The procedure is just as I outlined. My Ruger P95 takedown was just like a 1911; nothing like what you've described for the M&P.

So the takedown is not as simple as my SIG? Lock the slide back, flip the lever, release the slide, and slide it off.

Based on what we see in the video, in what way is he taking it down improperly?

They're all Winchesters: 1873 (left) 1885 (middle) 1876 (right)

But the crack in the slide rail is in exactly the same spot as Hickok's. I wonder how many rounds have been put through his gun? He got it used from one of his YouTube fans.

I've never handled a M&P but that looks like a recess in the frame for the take down lever--to make it more flush with the side of the frame.

Check this out: http://pistol-training.com/archives/985

Here's the video at 1:07. I don't see any cracks in the frame.

What frame? That's the slide removed from the frame. You're looking at the inside of the slide from the bottom. The frame is lying on the shooting table.

All I saw in the video was the crack in the left slide rail.

Congrats.

Nope, not a Sharps.

Can you ID these rifles?

Notice when he starts to remove the slide he comments on how he's noticed it hangs up sometimes. I bet that crack in the slide rail is why.

It's not the frame, it's one of the rails on the slide.

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No matter what caliber you choose, shot placement is going to critical for dropping them with one shot. A good 12 ga slug gun would do the trick. As for rifles, I'd be comfortable taking any of these on a pig hunt: My Marlin 30-30 My Savage 99 in 308* My 1895 in 30-06 My No. 1 in 30-06 *The one I would most likely take if someone called me up and said let's go hunt some pigs.