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When I started reloading I had the same ideas about not wanting to invest in a tumbler. I went the Iosso case cleaner route which worked fine for a while. The drying part of the process and having to use the kitchen sink to rinse all of the solution off of the cases finally became too much of a hassle and I purchased the Cabella case tumbler 'kit' which came with corn cobb media, liquid cleaner for the media, and a sifter plate to seperate the media from the brass for $60. What a great purchase!! The beauty of the tumbler is that you can just dump your brass, turn it on and leave it for 10 minutes to several hours depending on what you are trying to do. It saves me time and the end result is brass that looks like new - much better than the Iosso cleaner. After several years of reloading, I'm still on that first bag of media and bottle of cleaner, too.

I know this is an old thread, but... I had this happen once with a RCBS die. It turned out to just be a piece of carbon scratching the cases from a dirty die and simply required some cleaning out with CLP and a paper towel. I now make sure to tumble all my fired brass BEFORE re-sizing to remove any bits of carbon/dirt so that it doesn't ever get into the die. On case lube, I've tried a couple, including One Shot and the Lee stuff, but I always go back to the Imperial Sizing Wax. That is the BEST case lube out there and it's very inexpensive.

I can't recall for sure, but I was thinking the 10/22 owner's manual suggest not using anything but copper 'jacketed' (washed really) bullets. No waxed lead bullets. Is that correct? Anyway, I've only used metal coated bullets in my 10/22 and I clean it after every range session. I carefully used a cleaning rod with a bore guide and just use Hoppes #9. As BarryIN mentions, the .22LR is very dirty and will start to fould up the action very quickly. After a few hundred rounds, there is usually so much soot in the action that it begins to affect functionality. EDIT: The owner's manual does not say anything about bullet coatings. I must have been thinking of my Advantage Arms .22LR conversion.

You'll be fine using Hoppe's 9 and Break Free CLP. Neither of those cleaning products will affect the 10/22's finish.

If you are looking for a real Russian SVD Dragunov you are in luck! One of the 100 or so KBI imports just went up for auction on Gunbroker!! These rifles don't come up for sale very often.

So you likely have the Tapco G2 trigger that CAI puts in these, which is a pretty decent AK fire control group. I was just curious.

I really enjoy my Russian Mosin Nagant M91/30 PU Sniper rifles. As far as genuine military sniper rifles go, they are very inexpensive and still shoot quite well. This is my 1944 Tula (RGuns import)... Top is a 1944 Izhevsk (sold), bottom is a 1943 Izhevsk (not import marked). The '43 is my favorite as it has the best trigger and a great looking arsenal finish on the stock.

What AK variant were you using? Model, manufacturer?

This threads a little old, but I thought I'd share the set-up I found that works really well on my M1A. I chose the ARMS #18 mount for two reasons: 1) it fits very securely to the rifle 2) it sits low enough that you don't have to remove it to shoot with the iron sights I have the throw lever ARMS #22 medium height rings but probably could have got away with the low height rings. The throw lever rings are great because I can remove the scope and shoot with iron sights very quickly, and then switch back to a scope if I want without losing zero. The cheek rest I use is not the most stable, but it is nice in that I can push it to the side slightly to shoot iron sights if I want to.