Bill_in_Utah
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Posts posted by Bill_in_Utah
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Originally Posted By: G-MANHave you looked at the P345?
Not sure why, but it's nearly $200 more and the barrel is shorter (4.2"). 4.5" is my min, when previously I drew the line at 5".
Paul,
Just checked and prices for the P90TH is $384 and P345 2 tone is $409.
The P345 does come with 2 mags where as the P90Th comes with one. It does come with the wrap around grips though.. (The P345 does not need anything as far as a grip)
Mags are cheap for them. Get the factory ones!
Both are great shooters! The P345 is a great house gun with the rail and safety/decocker.
Take care, bill
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That is a GREAT price!
Midway does require a LOT of pick and choosing along with looking at shipping to be a great deal.
I just bought 2 more Mkii mags from them. Let us know how you like the 22/45! My cousin has one and its a shooter. Very nice and seems to run forever before cleaning. (if he has cleaned it yet...)
Bill
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New Rimfire rifles from Marlin
Rumor is that they will be made in the Remington factory.
New Youth models, the whole line up in .17HMR, .22LR and .22WMR is new.
You now can get a Marlin with a heavy barrel, no sights and their new adjustable trigger for under $200 street!
I'll be looking forward to one of these. I'll prob get it in .22lr as you can not have enough of those...
Bill
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Spend some time looking at people's YouTube videos. You'll see a lot there. Anything is learning. Right or wrong!
Agree with having more than one reloading manual for data.
I shoot 95% lead in the handguns. Been doing it for decades. And I shoot a LOT. The trick to reloading is to buy when on sale and bulk if possible.
I've had RCBS, Dillion and Lee over the decades. Right now I have 2 presses and they both are Lee. The Classic cast single stage is the best press of that type period. I'd put it's design, operation and durability against anything anyone else makes. Much better than the old Rock-Chuckers (and the new ones are junk compared to those).
Agree with getting a good Balance beam like the RCBS 5.0.5 (which I've had for decades and use weekly) and something to check the scale here and there. (check weights or known objects)
Stay away from the digital ones. I have 2 digital scales, one is broke with a "lifetime" warranty that cost $70 bucks to fix a $99 scale (it was $200 when new) and I refuse to every buy another item from that MFG. They look nice but are picky and very delicate.
Take care, Bill
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Great with the ghost rings. I've added a different stock and in fact shot it Monday for a few boxes.
Excellent shotgun!
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It is nice to see completed tasks.
And not to worry. .223 is getting done as we speak. Got a lot of that to reload. It does not go as quick since I have to lube.
Take care, bill
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Since it was snowing and cold decided to load up a few rounds;
850 rounds 9mm 124gn MBC lead
100 rounds .357 125gn Rem JHP
Love this part of the hobby!
Bill
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Originally Posted By: Bill_in_UtahSo between the 2 IF you had to keep one which one would it be Wayne?
And more important... Why?
Bill
That an almost impossible question to answer, but I'll give it a shot.
I'll first start by stating that they are both fantastic pistols. I have to answer your question from the view that I my purpose for the pistols is to carry concealed. Both conceal sooo much easier than a pistol with a full length grip that they are in a class all by themselves. However, you asked me to choose, so here it goes. The M&P wins because it conceals slightly better than the XD.
If I had to sell one and keep the other, I'd sell the XD. There you have it!!
Wayne
Its good to see that both as far as shooting and "feel" are not in the mix, only how it conceals.
I may be getting an XD tactical from a co-worker who got it for Christmas and he needs the money bad. Has not shot it yet and comes with 5 mags since it was bought during their 3 mag promo.
With a 5inch barrel I'd not consider it for CCW so it would be just to help out the friend.
Bill
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Nice review.
I honestly haven't followed Ruger centerfire autos much since a bad experience with a P90 (I know, I shouldn't base much on a single gun), but that looks pretty nice. It looks pretty slim- Is it?
It is. My P90 has been great but its my 2nd one. Sold off my first one a LONG time ago and bought another some time later.
Some measurements of a M&P 40 vs SR40
Grip at thickest point. 1.470 vs 1.270
Slide thickness. 1.180 vs 1.160
Pretty well everything else is the same as overall length and height.
Bill
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So between the 2 IF you had to keep one which one would it be Wayne?
And more important... Why?
Bill
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I don't really review weapons too well (esp when compaired to others on this forum) but I thought I'd let you know how I like the SR40 I got once they were announced.
Nice shooter. Slightly less felt recoil than any other .40 S&W I've shot (Glock 22/23, M&P 40/40c, BHP, XD and 1911 along with others)
Comes with 2 easy to load 15+1 cap clips/mags. Rear site is adjustable for elevation. Good 3 dot sights. Thumb safety is easy to use both left and light. Mag release on both sides easy to use.
Like the curved backstrap over the flat. Ruger's SR series have a good grip profile for me. Very good trigger. The loaded chamber indicator works but I wished it was a little less. Not a fan of the mag safety (will take it out someday)
Shot about 1000 rounds through it now. It is more accurate than I am (as most weapons are for everyone) and I have not had any malfunctions with factory loads or my reloads. One thing I have noticed is it THROWS brass into the next zipcode. I'm talking like 15-25 feet at your 5 o'clock position. My brass catcher misses the brass unless I sit down or shoot RIGHT next to it.
Seems to love my lead reloads with slight leading after 300-400 rounds before cleaning. Easy to take down and it does have metal in both points for the slide. Metal recoil spring guide (single spring)
All in all for me a keeper and shooter. Very happy with the purchase and a few guys who have shot mine went and bought their own.
Hopefully this helps someone.
Take care, bill
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Why can't you own an XDM in California Steve? The mag capacity?
Prob that it has not been "tested" and put on the "Approved" list to be sold in CA.
A lot of weapons can not pass or the MFG will not try to get tested for that and other states.
Take care, Bill
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Originally Posted By: Bill_in_UtahPass on the Kel-Tecs. My Dad has one and its a piece. Terrible trigger, VERY inaccurate and not impressed with their "customer service".
His Kahr is quite a bit better but still I'd look at the Ruger. There is no way I'd buy a Kel-Tec after playing with Dad's.
Really. Its that bad....
I seriously doubt they are all that bad...to each his own I say. I never base a firearm opinion on one guy who bought a gun and had a bad experience. You can search the internets and find a post just like the one above about any gun. Any gun.
But I do listen to people who report on their experience. If they have a gun that has a terrible trigger, takes 8 weeks to get the weapon fixed (talk about a run around from the people in Florida) and once it returned being not accurate at all (I'm talking 8 inch groups around 30 feet and we DO know how to shoot) I'm going to take that into account.
Just like I'll take into account that people like their xxxx weapon.
You go buy one and let us know your experience.
Then we will have two opinions.
Take care, Bill
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Pass on the Kel-Tecs. My Dad has one and its a piece. Terrible trigger, VERY inaccurate and not impressed with their "customer service".
His Kahr is quite a bit better but still I'd look at the Ruger. There is no way I'd buy a Kel-Tec after playing with Dad's.
Really. Its that bad....
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I just make up dummy loads and put in either silicon, eraser or nylon in the primmer pockets.
The only round that this would not work is .22lr
Then take some red nail polish and paint the bullet to case area for ID if needed/wanted.
Bill
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Thank you!
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Pablo,
Check out the Lee Classic Cast series. Their Turret is a simple well designed with a excellent price.
Check out the top two videos. I don't use the auto prime (for the primers) I just select a single primer and put it in the primer cup. The NICE thing about this press is that you can take out the index rod and use it as a single stage for load development / tasks.
Built very well and mine has loaded tens of thousands with no problems.
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Baggie? Who knew?? I was thinking of a bunch of cases with sticky labels....
Oh I do that too. Plus range bags.
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If I'm doing development loads I place each load in a baggie and write on a piece of paper all the info. Then I write it in my log. When I go shooting I then write down anything I noted when firing the load, the Chrono info (if I time them)and what gun I fired them in.
Then when I get back home, take the spent brass with a magnifying glass and look for anything that may be an issue. If I like a certain load, note it in the log, write up a label for the 50/100 round box (or range bag if I load them in the hundreds) with the load data and go with that each time.
Distracted will get you in trouble quickly. Writing down the info takes care of the don't remember mode.
Be safe! Bill
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Reload for the 44 mag for decades. Been with RCBS, Dillion and now Lee for presses. RCBS, Hornady and Lee dies I use. In 44mag I have the Lee set.
Pablo if it was NOT for reloading I would not shoot very much. LOVE TO RELOAD! Its as much as shooting for me. Plus when components were less expensive it was nice to make a box of 50 rounds for less than a few bucks. Even with the outrageous prices today its still a great deal.
I have a ton of loads from a great paper punching 165gn lead load to 300 grain watch out loads in the 44mag. Just depends on what I want to the load to do. One favorite thing for us is shooting milk jugs and oil containers full of water. Take a 240 grain JHP, load it well and shoot it with any 44mag and its just vapor when it hits. That load in the 44mag lever action is a favorite of my 17yr old Daughter.
As far as brass, I'm in the same situation as Moe. I bought 1500 Starline and still have prob 1000 unused in the box. I've not seen any difference in any caliber on life of nickel vs brass as far as live. When they split they split no matter what they are made of.
I've gone from Single stages to progressives to turrets. They each have their purpose and faults. For ME I like having a single stage and turret on the bench and I'll get along just fine with less drama than the other setups I've had over the years.
Biggest thing is go slow and learn while you go. For some people they should NOT reload with their personalities. My Cousin is one of those guys. He still has all of his fingers. His weapons were not so lucky. (yes, I said WEAPONS. He has blown up a few)
Take care and Merry Christmas!
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I wasn't doubting your accuracy on the M&P procedure, just commenting on how similar yet different it is from my SIG P6 (which is not striker fired).
Would it be possible to use the trigger as the "sear deactivation lever" and take the M&P down just like you do a Glock? (Maybe that is what Hickok was doing.)
Well if you force it the slide will come off and possibly bend the "take down lever" (which is more like a rod/wire). The Ruger above you would not bend if you tried. (but you also will not get the slide off)
Smith will replace the lever when they get the gun in for the slide. If he follows the take down procedure the slide falls off the frame every time.
I've got a few co-workers who have the same problem and once they flick the rod/lever all is good unless its bent. And on the models with the mag disconnect it really messes with the trigger once its bent.
Another feature! If I have a choice I like the models without the mag disconnect.
Take care, Bill
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Just took down my Ruger P85Mkii and you DO have to press down on the lever inside the frame just like the Smith to get the slide off.
You can see the lever in the mag well.
Bill
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Originally Posted By: Bill_in_UtahOriginally Posted By: G-MANSo the takedown is not as simple as my SIG? Lock the slide back, flip the lever, release the slide, and slide it off.
Smith wanted to make sure that you did NOT have to pull the trigger before taking down the weapon so they put the take down lever inside the frame that allows you to take the slide off without the possible AD that other weapons sometimes have.
I just watched the video again and no, he is not doing the take down correctly per the manual.
Also the Ruger SR9C, SR40 are the same way as the smith. The P series are the same way too!
Bill
I don't have to pull the trigger on my SIG P6. The procedure is just as I outlined.
My Ruger P95 takedown was just like a 1911; nothing like what you've described for the M&P.
Trust me I'm not making this up.
From the manual; (figures 16A and 16B show the lever)
Sig P6 is not a striker weapon correct? I know on some of my P series I do have to do the same as the smith. I'll check my P85Mkii and see what it requires. The P94 does have the lever. Have to check the others.
Bill
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So the takedown is not as simple as my SIG? Lock the slide back, flip the lever, release the slide, and slide it off.
Smith wanted to make sure that you did NOT have to pull the trigger before taking down the weapon so they put the take down lever inside the frame that allows you to take the slide off without the possible AD that other weapons sometimes have.
I just watched the video again and no, he is not doing the take down correctly per the manual.
Also the Ruger SR9C, SR40 are the same way as the smith. The P series are the same way too!
Bill
357 Mag Recipe?
in Pistol Reloading General
Posted
The newer Unique is much cleaner. For my plinking loads I use anything from Clays to W231 to Unique to Clays Universal.
Hotter loads in the .357 get 2400 or /W296/H110.
Unique is a great powder for the loads the OP is wanting. So is Clays Universal (close to the same burn rate BTW)
Take care, Bill