woodsoup
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Posts posted by woodsoup
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True!
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OUCH!!!!
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Straight walled pistol cartridges shouldn't need much nore than that. If even that. Remember that the pistol rounds index on the case mouth. If you're having problems with bullet set back then your .0005" to .001" should be enough. Although I don't see how you came up with one half thousandths, considering the variations in brass thicknesses in the same lots. Did you mean .005" to .010"
When you bell the case mouth it should be enough so that the bullet will start into the case. If you chamfer the id of the neck, jacked bullets should need no bell. Lead and plated bullets do need a bell though.
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... or Ultra max trying a CMA and not fessing up to bad product. I've had Ultra Max .38 spl with 3 different head stamps and 2 different configurations of SWC bullets in the same box.
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Flat based bullets are supposedly more accurate in the 1-250/300 yard ranges. Boat tail bullets from there on out are supposedly more accurate. I can't see any difference at 100 yards using generic 55gr bullets in each flavor.
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That is a possibility. There is a step in the split collet on the end that the bullet sticks through. If it, the collet, is stuck closed the case will catch on the step.
The 4 splits in my collet are about .030" wide when relaxed and .000 when compressed with the ram.
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Did you Full Length size all the brass?
Are all your cases the same length (1.750)?
If not that might be some of the problem.
Are the shoulders set back the same?
The FCD works by the case holder pushing the split bushing up into the tapered sleeve and closing the bushing on the case mouth at the top of stroke. You only want about .030" of crimp length (measured from case mouth towards the base)
Are you using bullets with a cannulure?
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Went to the Charlotte gunshow today with the better half. She came home with a Walther PK380 with a gun rug, leather IWB holster so she can clip it into her purse and 150 rounds of Fiocchi 95gr HP ammo for $398.00 OTD.
I came back with a Ruger GP100 in .327 Fed Magnum (shoots .32, .32 S&W Long, .32 H&R magnum and .327 Mag.) a gun rug, 100 Federal 100 gr sp Mag rounds and a fobus paddle holster for $595.00 OTD. and 1000 rounds of 5.56 193 ammo for $300.00 OTD. Not barn burner prices, but acceptable.
Now just have to clean them up and get to the range to break them in. Reports to follow, Probably next weekend.
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Wayne, You figure out what was really wrong yet? Nosey minds need to know?
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They're cheap, fun and quiet.
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Does Bushmaster make a .22 dedicated upper? Or any dedicated .22 upper for that matter. There you go. And you save a few bucks. You can always buy/build a new lower later on.
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If you decide on a Lee press, I'd suggest the classic cast press. It has an enormous ram, the primer drops out the bottom of the ram into your container of choice and it is mechanically stronger than H!ll.
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Wayne, you know you're supposed to start low and work up. You might never find that Nirvana load, like mine, worrying about brass life. (24 gr Tac under 62 gr fmj w/c Privy projectile w/ wolf srm primers in any brass 2.245 COAL) You didn't get that from me. Shot out of a S&W 15OR carbine and a Tikka T3 Hunter bolt .
Nah, don't worry about brass life, your fun time is too short.
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Nevermind, someone left me a stash (150 each) at the range, right there, neetly stacked up on the bench. A 3 box stack of H&R Mag and a 3 box stack of >327 Fed. Mag. Glad I got there before the snow.
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In order to scratch a case, the metal of the die would have to rise. Grit (sand etc) might raise the edges of a scratch, but the die is hardened. I think what you have is a piece of stuff (?) that got embedded into the die. Try to pick it/knock it off with the edge of an old cleaning rod. Then polish it with some auto paint compound and a tight old brass or copper brush tightly wrapped with a piece of cloth in a hand drill.
If the die is carbide, the defect is probably a gall picked up on the carbide from a case that was not lubed properly, and added to by each case after that. Use the same procedure as above.
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Might have been some caster that worked at a plating shop and was rolling his own.
I've never seen plated and lubed bullets.
Could have been some sort of manufacturing snafu. They sent the wrong bullets off to the plater.
Measure them are they jacked diameter for caliber or oversized as in cast/swagged?
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Best I can tell you is to file the copper off at a 45 deg. angle and look at it under a magnifying glass or loupe. You can use a hair (not that type, although they are thinner) usually .003"- .005" as a comparison. Remember, hair isn't round. It's eliptical in cross section, so if you measure one you're measuring the thinest dimmension.
True plated cladding should appear about 50% thicker, on the filed profile, than the actual thickness, and about the same as the hair. Washed won't have any perceptible thickness in the filed profile.
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They may be copper washed (<.001" thickness) and not plated (>.002" thickness) much like some .22 ammo is. Therefore the lube.
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Just the biggest pistol and longest rifle shipping boxes. In case I ever have to ship one back to the factory, and all the cases, boxes or containers that held the weapon. My attic is not full yet, but I'm working on it.
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Just those ol Uncle Mikes. But any brand will do. The wife wanted a "soft" one so it would hide things better. Go figger on that one!
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Get her a cheap IWH holster, and she can clip it into one of the many pockets her current purses have. That's what my wife ended up doing. Solved the $$$ problem for dedicated CCW purses and keeps her up to date fashionable all the time. Just have to make sure wheather she wants/needs a lefty or a righty. Heck, just get her one of each. My wife is righthanded and wanted to cary with the weapon close to her body, so she uses a right handed one the most. A left handed model will allow for away from the body carry.
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Yep, I filed a lead into the V of the slide bar. This gave the powder a slope to slide down. Of course you have to re calibrate all your loads. I never bother with VMD's, I just weigh charges until I get the right weight and start loading. I check about every 10th charge for the first 50 and then when I think about it.
Make sure the thingy that moves the charge bar is in the proper slot. It should be in the short one at the edge of the bar.
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Rugerman,
I wonder what 'tapping' method should be used for consistent loads? A hard hammer like whack, or a love tap?
It does seem a bit silly to have to tap the measure...I think I'll just use a single larger cavity and take a slightly smaller charge.
Wayne
You can ream out that smaller hole to a larger charge, with a piece of rolled up sandpaper, if you want. Just record the new charge weight when you do. Remember, each lot of the same type powder will have a different VMD. The adjustable charge bar is also an option.
Mossberg Factory service.
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