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Practically Shooting

Arkie_Lefty

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Posts posted by Arkie_Lefty

  1. Yes, being the dumbarse that I am, I once tried oil dry(same thing as kitty litter, just ground a little finer). TOTAL CATASTROPHIE!!!! Even though the clay is baked to ultra low humidity content, it left each and every piece of brass totally coated in caked MUD lookin' $hit! Had to dig it out of inside every case (luckily it was 45 auto and easily dug in), then paperclip each flash hole! Finally ended up puting it in a mesh bag in a load of laundry to get it cleaned up enough to re-tumble with walnut.

    NOT A GOOD/MONEYSAVING IDEA!!

    Bob

  2. Well understand the difference between a little 125lb Arkansas whitetail and a western elk! I wasn't in any way suggesting you use 150's for them.

    Point in fact, my pistolsmith nephew just recently put two 140gr balistic tips into a MONSTER Nebraska whitetail and lost it for a week and a half before a property owner found it and called him to come retrieve the rack. One round in the front shoulder, the other in upper ham (full away), neither made it to anything vital. Good shot placement from just under 300 yards. He's going to something tougher and heavier before next year. I suggested 160 partition in his locale.

    Bob

  3. Single shot .410 at the age of 8. Traded that sucker in on a Stevens (?) bolt 3 shot .410 repeater, that I managed to promptly blow up with a "reloaded" shell! (Took the guts out of a 12 round, including the primer, and stuffed it ALL in a 410 hull!!!) Saying is the Lord watches out for fools and small children,, in that case he was doing double duty!

    Next was an old Savage side by side that I proceded to chop off to 18 1/4 inches. Still managed to kill a lot of squirrel with that old blunderbuss.

    Know a lot of folks who still own firearms from their childhood, but I've allways tried to trade up and never look back.

    Bob

  4. The one I own is actually a NEF shotgun action with a 30-06 bbl attached. HORRIBLE trigger!! I've never scoped and shot it, would like to find someone specializing in trigger work on this particular action.

    Others owned by friends and aquaintences seem outstandingly accurate, though some of them have less than ideal triggers (but not as bad as the shotgun one!)

    For your stated purposes, I can't imagine going with anything but the 223 simply because of economics and availability of ammo/components. 22/250 would be a distant choice.

    Bob

    FOUND MY MAN!!! Same Nephew who just did the 10/22, and all that superfine 1911 work was in for the holliday and said he needed something to curse and fume about this long cold winter and took it home with him! These things are a real biach to work trigger on, as everything is INSIDE the receiver, so one must either build a jig to hold everyting in place, or mount outside receiver on pins to measure/fit hammer, transfer bar,etc.

    Also asked him to put some kind of "[censored]-pad" on and have it Mag-Na-Ported to tame recoil.

    Couple a years and maybe I'll have another nought-six to load for!

    Bob

  5. As I mentioned in an earler post, my nephew is well on the way to being a world-class pistolsmith, specializing in custom 1911's. Sometimes, as a favorite uncle he can be persuaded into other projects. The last one is the overhaul of an old Ruger 10/22. Built in the 60's, it looked like it might have spent some time stuck in the dirt doing duty as a fencepost!

    a friend donated a new O. E. Ruger stainless barrel (yes years ago they actually had real stainless, instead of silver paint on steel), Joe bead-blasted the aluminum receiver and sprayed a clear coat to keep it from oxidizing, bead blasted the bbl., polished the trigger, as well as doing a trigger job, re-faced the bolt to square (also gets the chamber closer to minimum specs)and a dozen other things I can't remember and he didn't write down.

    Have a silver finish Burris 4X originally on the Wife's Mini-30 that I'm planning to put in black rings & base. Then it's off to a local shop that does "vat dipped" camo. http://www.camo-solutions.com/camo_patterns.htm Special heat reactive plastic film (knda like Saran Wrap) is laid on top of heated water in a vat, then the part, be it a barrelled action, or part of your Mercury duck boat engine, is dipped into the vat and plastic film is applied like a skin. In my case it's gonna be the "carbon fiber" finish applied to the stock!

    Right now I'm beating my brains out trying to decide whether to pillar bed before finish is applied, or hope for excellent groups as is.

    Bob

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