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Practically Shooting

Crashbox

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Posts posted by Crashbox

  1. Yes, I checked the charges about every ten to fifteen rounds and they all flattened out. I also calibrated my scale prior to using it. The OAL is 1.590 which is what it should be for a 125-grainer and they're crimping right smack in the middle of the cannelure.

    My next step will be (of course) to back off the loads to see if it helps. The data I have recommends magnum primers which is what I have but it may be that the Federal's are just too hot for this combo. If I can get some non-magnum's I'll try those and see.

  2. At the edge where the primer and case head meet there's usually a radiused chamfer around the circumference of the primer; I've noticed the primer metal seems to be flowing such that this radiused chamfer is almost completely gone. As I mentioned, no other symptoms of over-pressure...

    It is not too easy for me to get photos but I might be able to...

  3. Yeah, I had a couple of items that I needed to rectify. The pawls on the lower part of the ram needed to be adjusted as it was out-of-time and also the primer slider thing required minor tweaking. It's possible that I have an out-of-spec shell plate but I ain't sure. After I tweaked the press everything was pretty much smooth sailing.

    One puzzling item did occur- I noticed the powder charges being thrown crept up about 0.2 grain from when I started (I have the micrometer insert which is handy), although I did not adjust it to do so. It may have been inconsistent tempo with the ram- I probably sped up a bit as I went along...

  4. Well, I FINALLY got the nerve to try it. I found the primers slide rather smoothly down the tube and not as quickly as I figured they would (I suspect maybe some pneumatic cushioning due to the tube diameter and venting only at the top...?????).

    Talk about fun! I loaded up about 50 rounds of .357 Magnum using 7.1 to 7.3 grains of TiteGroup behind 125-grain JHP bullets, lit with Federal Small Pistol Magnum match-grade primers ('twas all they had). I was pleasantly surprised this morning when I headed to the range and fired 'em off.

    They actually worked- all of them! Reasonably accurate, too.

    No wonder people reload- it is enjoyable to say the least. And I'm also one of those crazy people who find cleaning my gun after a stint at the range to be therapeutic...

  5. Hmmm... I must be mistaken... I've always referred to both revolvers and auto-loaders as "pistols".

    I wonder if the definition of "pistol" has perhaps morphed over the past generation to refer mainly to auto-loading pistols exclusively-

    Well- since I also now have an auto-loader- I would say my SIG SP2022 in .40 S&W- it is quite accurate and not unpleasant at all to shoot.

  6. Well, I finally got around to mixing some up- both with MEK and without- but I altered it somewhat because of what I have in stock. I added some toluene and LC20, whether it helps or not I don't know but it sure didn't hurt.

    I use the MEK version on my GP100 revolver and the non-MEK stuff on my SIG SP2022 .40 S&W (NO WAY am I gonna use the high-octane version around a polymer frame unless I want to make the grip more conforming!!!!). This stuff does indeed work well for carbon fouling and the cost to mix it up is unbeatable!

    Anyway, thought I'd share my experience with it. No gun forum is complete without mentioning Ed's Red IMO laugh

  7. Hmmm... this has me wondering, too. Now that I have my CPL (got it Saturday) I was considering the possibility of a S&W M&P compact version for CC but now... hmmm... reliability is an absolute when it comes to SD.

    I opted for a SIG SP2022, .40 S&W and the optional Crimson Trace grips FWIW...

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