wwillson

When did the Glocks with the new grip start shipping? Wayne

Has anyone installed a light pull sear spring in a Remington 870, 1100, or 1187? I'm considering replacing the factory sear spring, which is pretty stiff with a lighter pull sear spring. The description doesn't say what the pull will be with the 'light pull' spring. Does anyone know what the pull will be with Remington's 'light pull' trap grade spring? Wayne

A member at our club, who I respect as a trap shooter, gave me a couple hints. First, mount your gun and hold it on your hold point for that position. Both eyes then go to the point on the house where the target will first be seen. Call for the target and KEEP both eyes on the target - never looking anywhere except the target. He says he concentrates so hard on the target that he "tries to read the writing on the target". In short I'll tell you that it works, it feels weird at first when you are accustomed to shooting with one eye and bringing the bead to the target. The point is that you look only at the target and never give into the tempation to look back at the gun. Wayne

Take a look at this Scope website lots of marketing, but looks like some good info as well. Wayne

I'm wondering if it feels any less 'blocky' than the current grip? Wayne

I've been shooting since I was way to young to shoot! I own many guns and try to shoot them all, but some I shoot much more than others. My main shooting activities are trap and .45ACP at an indoor range in my area. The trap range is very close to my house, so I get there a couple times per week. The indoor pistol range is about 25 minutes away, so I only get there about every other week. I cast (.45ACP) and reload everything I shoot except .22LR, but if I could reload them I would! The whole process of casting, reloading, and shooting is far and away the most interesting hobby I've ever had! Wayne

I do use wads for steel shot which have very thick peddles, so if the shot is at or below the top of the peddles all should be fine. I really think the trouble was with some loads that had some spill-over above the peddles. This is kind of an expensive lesson learned. Wayne

All, I reload for the 1911 in 45ACP. Most of my reloads are 230g RN that I cast from wheel weight lead. I put a very slight roll crimp and a very slight taper crimp on with the Lee factory crimp die. My crimps are so slight that you almost can tell it's been crimped. I believe the Lee factory crimp die full length crimps enough that the bullet doesn't move from the recoil. I'm wondering if I have enough crimp as there are times when I will get a fail to feed, but I just bump the slide ahead and keep shooting. How much roll/taper crimp to you put on your 45ACP loads? Wayne

Woodsoup, Ok - they are definitely scratches as you can feel them with a pencil and can see that there is barrel steel removed. I believe the shot was over the peddles and worked their way between the peddles and the barrel as the crimp was being pushed open. It is interesting that you can see where the highest outward pressure is as the scratches are only about 2-3" long and then completely disappear. Which makes sense that the highest pressure would be in the chamber area and the pressure would rapidly decrease as the wad and shot travel down the barrel. Wayne

We normally do a group buy at the trap range. It gets pretty big, so we get great deals on components AND we don't have to pay hazmat or shipping (it's enough that they send a truck just for us). I would think they would all catch up soon. I don't think the current ammo buying levels can be sustained. Wayne

Thanks Woodsoup! I will let you know if this works for me. Wayne

I'm not sure I know the difference? Can you describe each? Wayne

Widners does have large pistol primers at $29/1000. About $5/1000 cheaper than most other primers brands, but you can't find the other primer brands... Wayne

I only have one revolver - a Ruger Single Six .22LR. I use it mostly as a teaching handgun for my kids. A Single Six makes you slow down and think about everything you do - great for a learner. I have shot many different revolvers in the range, seems that every time I ask someone what they are shooting they insist that I shoot it (not a bad thing). I'd have to say the .44 Remington Magnum is about the most versatile revolver I've fired. You can load them very light, well below the energy of the 45ACP. Or, you can load the .44 hot and heavy for deer hunting etc. I will admit that the hot loads aren't much fun to shoot at the range and at an indoor range you won't make any friends with those hot loads rattling everyone's teeth! Wayne

Thanks Woodsoup, I wonder if grinding an opposing radius in the tweezer halves with a dremmel would accomplish the same ability to hold onto the .17 bullet? I haven't brazed in about 25 years and don't really have the correct equipment. Wayne

With a hotter mold, the bullets start to get a 'frosted' look. I've read that frosty bullets are just as good as non-frosted, especially since I use tumble lube as the frost may make the tumble lube stick better. Thoughts? Wayne

I use 4.0g Clays (Hodgdon published load), which is the max load. You only get ~793fps since Clays is such a fast burning powder, but it's really clean. Wayne

I've considered purchasing a .17 Remington Fireball for varmits and general plinking. I've never reloaded a bullet this small in diameter. I've been told be a couple .223 reloaders that I will hate reloading the .17 because it's hard to get the powder to flow through the small neck and the bullet is just simply so small. Any truth to this? I would probably only reload about 1,000/year. Thoughts? Wayne

Woodsoup, It's the breech end, about 1" of slight leading. I'm betting that the cast bullets are slightly undersized. The bullets measure .452, but don't have those great sharply filled out edges like alloy with more tin. Thanks for the tip on mica powder, I'll have to try that! Wayne

That's good to know. I wonder why Lee hasn't made the same parts available? Wayne

Fire away! The revolvers forums lives! Wayne

Woodsoup, Now that's some interesting feedback - thanks. No, I have never used them, but have read negative posts on the internet. Yes, I'm at fault for taking what I read at face value. I wonder how they will do in the cold weather up here? I don't use or need magnum primers, and I would assume they will work similarly to other standard primers. I will follow your advice and try some out. Wayne

There are many reasons to shoot two-eyed and you can see from this post that I'm switching now. It's a struggle, but I can see that in the long run it's going to be well worth the low scores now. Wayne

I figured out that when the spent primer was falling out of the brass it would sometimes hang in the ram. When the hole where the primer falls out is machined there is a cutout made where the cutting tool unnecessarily cuts some steel from the inside of the ram. This 'pocket' was pretty dirty which allowed the spent primers to hang up there instead of falling into the tube. When the primer arm swings in it knocks the spent primer out of the 'pocket', but also causes the primer arm to jump and sometimes tips the primer. The bottom line is to keep the inside of the ram clean! Wayne

Check out this post in the trap forum. Do you reload? Wayne