Tom

Ruger P95 used. Reliable and cheap to buy and feed.

Replace the trigger parts with Apex Tactical's kit and the trigger will be even better! The XDm is not on Calif. DOJ roster which means Springfield doesn't (and shouldn't) pay to have the DOJ test it. Legal BS. On the other hand, the roster doesn't apply to LEOs so they can (and do) buy them and resell for an inflated price. It's only illegal for a dealer to retail non-roster and it's not illegal to own or transfer one. Legal BS.

I'm a member also. All shooters should be. It seems like I payed to join an elite club that invites me to send them more money and buy more crap... Wine club, insurance, coins, gold, commemorative (fill in the blank), DVDs, books, along with donations to the various divisions of the NRA.

YES

any of the presses that look like an "O" There are some other shapes that have benefits I use a hand primer. It's fast enough but you do have to pay attention to it.

The Mag disconnect is very easy to remove. You remove the mag disconnect lever and spring and install a small spring in its place just like the factory does on non-MD models.

Still happy with this setup. The quality and function is great. I haven't used other single stage presses but I don't know how any of the same "O" frame presses would work better. The only downside is loading pistol rounds is slow but I don't shoot that much volume and it would be the same with any single stage press. I can load about 100/hr with my single stage, with a progressive that would be 300+. Rifle is faster because you only have 2 steps instead of 3 or 4. The Lock and Load die bushings work very well but you have to make sure they are completely seated, especially if you are only neck sizing because you put a lot of force on the press. I didn't get the die bushing completely seated once and cracked it. The die bushings make setup really fast with minimal adjustments.

I also have a 1952 Tula SKS.

by parts I mean if I save $30 on a scope from Midway that license has paid for itself. I'm a fan of the M98. I have a custom .22-250 built on a "Mexican" Mauser, which is similar to "small ring" M96.

That Makarov would be a fun gun but the Tokarev shoots nicer. 10+ rnd Magazines are an issue here in Calif. Ammo is definitely cheap for either. If a nice Mauser caught my eye I might pick it up. My main reason for the license is for "dealer" pricing on parts.

I don't think it gets much if any discount on ammo but it does allow you to directly order from wholesale/distributors that deal in C&R, So you could buy ammo they are offering. Most of the discounts from retailers are on parts and accessories. I don't care for the Mosin Nagant or any of the other "cheap" surplus. I like the K31 because it's unique and accurate.

C&R is 50+ years old (relic) or on the BATF list deemed "curio". It costs $30 for three years and takes about 3 months to process after you send in the basic paperwork and payment. Besides the benefit of being a "collector" many companies such as Brownells and Midway give you a "dealer" discount, that's the main reason I got the license. There are some restrictions, you can't buy to resell, they don't want you acting as a dealer but you can buy/sell/trade if it's part of collecting. Here's the BATF's FAQ http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/curios-relics.html Paperwork http://www.atf.gov/forms/download/atf-f-5310-16-notice.html Here's a couple companies that deal in C&R J&G Sales Aim Surplus

What should I buy? I'm thinking a Swiss K31. The straight pull bolt is cool and they are made very well. For those who don't know, a 03FFL is a collector's license that allows a person to mail order or cash and carry firearms deemed "Curio and Relic".

I loaded up some .40 S&W with 200 gr FMJ and a light charge of 5.6gr IMR 800x. I like the way it shoots for range use because it has hardly any snap and my M&P cycles just fine. I'm getting soot on the outside of the brass which I'm guessing means it's not developing much pressure to expand the brass. Does that hurt anything?

Heavier bullets have more recoil but the muzzle snap seems to be less than with lighter bullets. .45acp recoil (with much heavier bullets than .40, i.e. 230 gr) is described as a "push" rather than a "snap". Also a lighter bullet has more powder behind it. For example; if you were loading max loads with Power Pistol, a 155gr bullet would have 8.6gr powder, a 180gr bullet would have 7.3 gr powder, and a 200 gr bullet would have 6.0 gr powder. That's a 41% difference in powder.

I've found that lighter bullets are "snappier" than heavy. They also have more powder. I loaded some 135gr and didn't care for the way they shoot.

Have it both ways, buy an M&P15!

I spray it with carb cleaner but soap and water should get it clean enough.

I've been loading Hornady 155gr XTP bullets in my reloads. They seem to make the same holes in paper as anything else. I'm going to load up some 200gr loads next.

I've reloaded about 600 .40s&w rounds and yesterday at the range I had a ffffssssttt with no bang. I'm glad a heard the ffssstt sound because at first I thought it was a dud and immediately cleared and started to load, but a sooty, empty case fell out. The bullet is lodged in the barrel just past the chamber. Scary! I'm glad I didn't load another and pull the trigger, it would have ended badly I'm sure.

Apparently the Winchester "NT" is "non-toxic" and their special powder didn't need a large primer. CCI probably figured out a way to make blazer ammo cheaper by using smaller primers.

Congrats on the purchase. All gun manufacturers tell you not to shoot reloads; they have no way on controlling what you are reloading.

If .40s&w is known for being "snappy" and it's an abbreviated version of 10mm to reduce recoil then I don't think I'd buy it for a plinker.

Nice scope! Is the crazy paint job factory?

I install the "L" shaped piece that's supposed to be used for holding primers while they're installed. It guides the primers to the cheesy plastic primer catch 95% of the time.