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Practically Shooting

Arkie_Lefty

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Everything posted by Arkie_Lefty

  1. Then hit 'em with ball! Guaranteed 0 expansion! Bob
  2. That's good! If only one of you was sayin' it, it could get VERY EXPENSIVE!!! Bob
  3. Couple years ago I had a guy do some work under house. To access part of crawl space he removed an 8”X12” vent cover and enlarged the hole enough to go in and out. Never repaired hole properly. About 2 weeks ago we began noticing skunk odor in house and then heard bumping and banging of small animal under there! Looked and sure enough, vent cover was completely out of place and skunk odor was really strong near the opening. Not daring to plug hole and take the chance skunk would die under there I placed a live trap so anything exiting would have to walk into trap. First night I caught a pack rat! Cute little fellows, didn’t have the heart to kill him, so transported him a couple miles and released. Immediately replaced trap and watched and waited. Two weeks after initial placement of trap I told wife there couldn’t be a skunk still under there , he must have only come occasionally looking to catch the pack rat. Hadn’t removed trap and blocked vent yet and yesterday morning our Yorkie went ballistic barking when I let her out for her morning walk. I ran around house and sure enough she was NOSE TO NOSE with a huge skunk in the trap! Managed to get her away without being sprayed, can’t imagine why it didn’t , as she was literally close enough for her spittle to bit him when she barked! NOW,, what in the [censored] do you do with a live skunk, in a trap, inches from underneath your home (raining naturally)? Go on to work and think about it! Researched on the web, and everything said to approach slowly and place a cover over trap so skunk can’t see you (as a target). Actually most sources said to cover trap before putting it in action. So, at lunch, with great trepidation , I covered the trap. Let it get used to that idea as I ate lunch. Then the great journey of 300 yards or so into the thicket behind my house with trapped, covered skunk, and a 10/22 (would a took my C. Z. American but didn’t want to get a good gun wet!). Set trap where I could get a good rest from 25ft or so, carefully uncovered it (keeping cover, an old plastic coated picnic table cloth between me and skunk’s line of sight), let it settle down while I got my breath back. Little guy was a lot heavier than I’d have expected! Then rested 10/22 on a limb and carefully put a round (Fed. Auto Match) into his head. Skunk just kinda wilted down on bottom of trap. No flopping and twitching as many animals do, and no cloud of noxious spray! Went back to work, guys said I had no noticeable odor. After work (dark) went out and retrieved trap and placed it back at vent hole. Came in and wife said I’d gotten a pretty strong odor just from emptying the trap and carrying it back home. Stripped on the back deck and got in the shower with mixture recommended on a couple different web sites of “hydrogen peroxide”, “baking soda”, and “dish soap”. Seemed to work excellently at removing stench. . Must be some source of water under there somewhere or number 1 couldn’t have lasted 2 weeks. Trap may set there the rest of winter. Bob
  4. I'm inclined to thing common with all Tarus lightweights. Enough so that I'd not have another up my arse, even if there was room for a steamboat! Bob
  5. Bought that exact revolver for the wife back in the spring. Loaded it up with pretty run-of-the-mill 125gr jhp reloads. Fired 2 cylinders, thinking it was rather viscious, She ran a cylinder full through it, handed it back to inspect the tear in the web of her thumb/index finger joint, and told me "you need to sell or trade this, I'll never shoot it again". That's exactly what I did. Bob
  6. Nephew at Marvel Custom Pistols says those are a much better place to start to build a custom gun than any Colt or Kimber. Fit, finish, accuracy, and reliability out of the box is usually top notch. Bob
  7. When Arkansas first passed CCW you were required to have the S.N. of the (3) firearms you planned to carry ON THE CARD! Now if you shoot a revolver at the class you are only qualified to carry a revolver. If you use a auto, you are qualified to carry either. 'Course if you can manage not to shoot the instructor or another student here you get certified. No minimun score on a standardized target or any such. My wife and I went together to the class and both used my Ruger MKII 22. While shooting, I noticed my target seemed to be getting a LOT of holes,,,turned out guy standing next to me (5 shooters on the line at a time) was shooting my target also!! We both qualified (er,,should I say we three?). Was really proud of my wife, Stood there like a trooper belting them out without a flinch while being bombarded by hot brass from shooter beside her. Shoot what you're most comfortable with,,,CARRY what you feel most comfortable with,,,They don't have to be the same! An old, possibly collectable, probably valuable pistol like your PPK? Leave it in the safe, or sell it, find something like a KAR or KelTech thats more suitable for modern CCW. Bob Bob
  8. Mine's been cut down and turned into a "Tanker" version. Never were produced in volume, experimental only. With an 18" bbl., it's hard to get enough hearing protection! G Man, yours so do as you please, but conventional wisdom is to only fire ammo with same basic balistics/burn rates/pressures, etc. as military ball, as anything else can do damage (bend) the op-rod/piston assy. Another difference between standard Garand and "C",,,,about $2,000.00! Bob
  9. Cor-Bon 200grain in a 45, any jacketed 125 in 357, cor-Bon 380, and all lead 158 grain hp semi wad cutter in 38spl (FBI load). Bob
  10. PETALS. Occasional Grammer Nazi! 'Specially when hit's the "High Lord Admin"! Bob
  11. Only one? Have to be my Ruger MkII 22. Cheap to shoot , reliable, not so outrageiously loud, DEADLY. Acurate enough for small game. That's considering/including the half dozen Pythons in the safe, and a couple custom 1911's. Kinda against new terminology, but I've all ways considered 'em all pistols. Divided into 2 sub-groups, auto's and revolvers. Even if I make the mistake of calling a revolver a pistol,,you'll know I ain't shootin' at ya with a AK47 Bob
  12. YES! Pretty sure the rifle Wayne mentioned was probably made by them also. Bob
  13. 38/357 is an excellent place to start! same set of dies for both. just must be adjusted differently to compensate for case length. Oh yeh, REMEMBER to reset the powder setting when switching back to 38! I'm useing RCBS press with RCBS Piggyback progressive adaptors. If I could sell all this junk , er, stuff, I'd buy Dillon and never look back. Bob
  14. Used to buy 22 ammo at gunshows that was made in Philipines. HOT!! Was pretty acurate though. Haven't seen it in years, wish I'd a bought thousands of rounds and saved some of it for hardtimes. Can't for the life of me remember the name now! There were rifles floating around the shows from the same mfgr. about the same time. Bob
  15. She's been in the safe a year or so now. Fired several hundred rounds thru her when I first got her back. Functioned flawlessly with really good and really bad reloads. Joe says it's accurate (in spite of Mr. Marvel's humor), good enough for me, I'm a terrible pistol shot. Minute of S. O. B. at 10, or so yards is good enough for me. I'll take stippling over checkering every time! Yea, that's stippling on the back of slide(eliminate glare)! Bob
  16. Howdy! down here in the South we like 'em with a bit more tan! FIND THE IOWAN Bob
  17. C r - BOB MARvEL 2303 CoumyRD:::CREm, NE 66333 custom pistols [email protected] www.BOBMARVELGUNS.COM custom dzsijn Arkie Lefty 3-23-07 COLT COMBAT ELITE XXXXXXX MR. Lefty, THE FOLLOWING WORK HAS BEEN COMPLETED ON YOUR PISTOL, WITH THE HELP OF JOE CHAMBERS: CROSS D/E FRONT SIGHT WITH RED FIBER OPTIC BLENDED THE FRONT SIGHT INTO THE SLIDE $60.00 S/A B/I GRIP SAFETY (SS) BLENDED TO THE FRAME AND TESTED FOR CORRECT RELEASE $100.00 NM BUSHING FIT TO FIELD USE AT .002” TOL $40.00 BARREL: HOOD WELDED AND RECUT ADDING .026” TO HOOD LENGTH HOOD TO BREECH GAP IS.0015” FINISHED LUG TO HOOD LENGTH 1.325” FINISHED CHAMBER DEPTH IS .919” $ 40.00 CROWNED BARREL - THROATED BARREL AND RAMP - DRESSED AND POLISHED REPLACED HAMMER (HAMMER HOOKS AT .018”) $50.00 CORRECTED SEAR ANGLES (SEAR OAL: .775”) REPLACED SEAR SPRING AND INSTALLED AN 80 SERIES BLOCK $ 15.00 REPLACED TRIGGER AND SET 0/I SCREW (PLEASE LEAVE ALONE) TRIGGER JOB SET AT CRISP 4# PULL WITH MODERATE TAKE UP AND SLIGHT AFTER TRAVEL CORRECTED MAGAZINE WELL AND INCREASED MAG FEED ANGLE $40.00 CORRECTED MAGAZINE CATCH AND CATCH LOCK CORRECTED RECOIL ROD CORRECTED AND SET BACK THE EXTRACTOR BY .0 18” $40.00 STIPPLE THE REAR OF THE SLIDE $ 25.00 STIPPLED THE FRONT STRAP AND CUT MARVEL PATTERN INTO THE GRIP $100.00 RELIABILITY PACKAGE $285.00 HAND POLISHED SLIDE AND FRAME - BLUED SLIDE $185.00 DISCONNECTOR RAIL MARVEL CUT TEST FIRED THE WEAPON WITH 200 + ROUNDS OF VARIOUS AMMO (JOE MISSED THE TARGET EVERY TIME, BUT THE GUN WORKED GREAT) RETAIL PRICE $990.00 THANK YOU JOE CHAMBERS
  18. Fixed that for ya! ,,,Least that's what re-kindled my interest! Bob
  19. Most all full auto sub guns are blowback, capable of using HOT milspec ammo. Why would closed bolt semi not be acceptable? These things have just about as much snob apeal as an AK. Also like an AK,,, if you pull the trigger it's GONNA GO OFF!!! Come on guys,,, this is a $150. plinker! Blast away, hose 'er down with brake cleaner, if it gets too worn, damaged, or dirty to function, put it of on some sucker (preferably a dealer) at a gun show and get another! Bob
  20. Run a small wire from press mount bolts to center cover mounting screw on nearest receptacle. I also use a area carpeted mat to ease strain on feet (can also be taken outside and shook). I'm just too messy to work on carpet! For a prebuilt work bench, think I'd hit used furntiure/junk shops to see what might come to hand. Bob
  21. Bbl length only affects velocity. Not accuracy. Bob
  22. Excellent advice on carpet. you will spill powder, you don't want to pick it up with a vacuum cleaner! Same on the bench. build it allong one full wall, out of rigid materials. No flex, jiggle. Now, who'd gonna be first to tell him "You must start with a single stage system and practice for a few years before you are competent enough to (throw all that equipment away and buy new)use progresive? Start with progressive and never look back. Bob
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